V Puro Alias Tinto, Bairrada, Portugal 2018
Nuno Mira do Ó is the singular inertia that drives both V. Puro and his eponymous Mira do Ó project in the myriad directions across the Portuguese landscape. Nuno is an untethered vine hunter, scouring the full country with the pure heart of a vigneron unlocking the core of any realized terroir. When he does root himself eventually, it is in agreement with the “old-timers”, often hiding a few rows, for sure off the beaten path. Certainly nothing is contiguous. In fact, he often has to travel into separate regions to satisfy the hunt. The reward is worthy of his tireless efforts, since his goal is the original clones of the indigenous varietals, shared and planted before the government mandated nursery clones were dispersed for larger co-op production decades ago. Exact location is perhaps not as important. It is these old timers that give wisdom and complexity to his wines.
As a result of his unique endeavor, Nuno has multiple projects in motion, each giving a “grand cru” level of precision and artistry. Cellar work is minimal, with a goal of terroir expression, natural concentration and proof that these original species are worthy of long cellar aging. Where he can grow, he is grafting/replanting “massale” cuttings to increase his chances of creating more wine to prove this point. If he can find “own-rooted” plants, all the better.
If there is one producer in particular that we appreciate for a vision, a roadmap toward Portugal’s terroir appreciation and understanding, Nuno would stand out. We have the great pleasure of getting to know him now through V. Puro’s finessed Baga and his sensuous Encruzado in Mira do Ó. It will be a pleasure furthermore where we meet him down the road.
Grape: 100% Baga
Made from the Baga vines located in the cooler portions of the vineyard, aiming to express a fresh-spirited expression of Baga. It is fermented in “lagares” with manual treading, but with a shorter aging period. Lighter color, with delicate fruit and fine tannins, fresh acidity and a huge depth.