Thomas-Labaille Sancerre Les Monts Damnes Chavignol, Loire, France 2023

Jean-Paul Labaille continues the great work of his father-in-law Claude Thomas, creating one of the finest Sancerres from vines in "les Monts Damnees," an incredibly steep-south facing hillside in Chavignol on Kimmeridgian limestone and red clay. The 2023 shows complex aromas of pear, quince, kiwi, citrus, lime-flower and stone in this quite ripe vintage in Sancerre. The palate is brisk and citrusy, with hints of pear, almond and stone, finishing with firm acidity and bright lemony fruit. This is a young and vibrant Sancerre to accompany grilled fish, fish or chicken in sauce goat cheeses from Chavignol. Delicious now, but will really sing after a few years of aging, enjoy until 2035.