J.B. Becker Wallufer Walkenberg Alte Reben Riesling Spatlese Trocken, Rheingau, Germany 2022

Once a forgotten gem, the Rheingau wine region is reclaiming its former glory, thanks to renewed investment and the efforts of estates like J.B. Becker. Since taking over in 1971, Hans-Joseph Becker has championed bone-dry Rieslings, pushing against the conventions of the time. His wines have striking structure, cellar longevity, and very little residual sugar, resembling Rheingau wines of 100 years ago.

While the Spätlese Trocken is gregarious and outward-looking, the old-vine bottling is more stern and structured. The vines here are all over 40 years old (some up into their 70s) and the concentration is there. Yet the 2022 feels juicy, expressive and friendly. It also has a very serious structure, chewy and phenolic. This is a triumph of a wine.